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British Cuisine: the Best of Old and New
British cuisine (烹饪) has come of age in recent yearsas chefs (厨师) combine the best of old and new.
Why does British food have a reputation for beingso bad? Because it is bad! Those are not the mostencouraging words to hear just before eating lunchat one of Hong Kong's smartest British restaurants, Alfie's by KEE, but head chef Neil Tomeshas more to say.
"The past 15 years or so have been a noticeable period of improvement for food in England," the English chef says, citing the trend in British cuisine for better ingredients, preparation andcooking methods, and more appealing presentation. Chefs such as Delia Smith, Nigel Slater, Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay made to the public realize that cooking --- and eating --- didn't have to be a boring thing. And now, most of the British public is familiar even with theextremes of Heston Blumentha's molecular gastronomy, a form of cooking that employsscientific methods to create the perfect dish.
"It's no longer the case that the common man in England is embarrassed to show he knowsabout food," Tomes says.
There was plenty of room for improvement. The problems with the nation's cuisine can betraced back to the Second World War. Before the War, much of Britain's food was imported andwhen German U-boats began attacking ships bringing food to the country, Britain went onrations (配给).
"As rationing came to an end in the 1950s, technology picked up and was used to mass-produce food," Tomes says. "And by then people were just happy to have a decent quantityof food in their kitchens."
They weren't looking for cured meats, organic produce or beautiful presentation: they werelooking for whatever they could get their hands on, and this prioritization of quantity overquality prevailed for decades, meaning a generation was brought up with food that couldn'tcompete with neighboring France, Italy, Belgium or Spain.
Before star chefs such as Oliver began making cooking fashionable, it was hard to find arestaurant in London that was open after 9 p.m. But in recent years the capital's culinary (烹饪的) scene has developed to the point that it is now confident of its ability to please the tastesof any international visitor.
With the opening of Alfie's in April, and others such as The Pawn, two years ago, modern Britishfood has made its way to Hong Kong. "With British food, I think that Hong Kong restaurants arekeeping up," says David Tamlyn, the Welsh executive chef at The Pawn in Wan Chai. "HongKing diners are extremely responsive to new ideas or presentations, which is good news fornew dishes."
Chefs agree that diners in Hong Kong are embracing the modern British trend. Somerestaurants are modifying the recipes (菜谱) of British dishes to breathe new life into theclassics, while others are using better quality ingredients but remaining true to Britishtraditions and tastes.
Tamlyn is in the second camp. "We select our food very particularly. We use US beef, NewZealand lamb and for our custards (牛奶蛋糊) we use Bird's Custard Powder," Tamlyn says. "Some restaurants go for custard made fresh with eggs, sugar and cream, but British custard isdifferent, and we stay true to that."
Matthew Hill, senior manager at the two-year-old SoHo restaurant Yorkshire Pudding, alsouses better ingredients such a means of improving dishes. "There are a lot of excitingperceptions about British food and so we can't alter these too much. We're a traditionalBritish restaurant so there are some staples (主菜) that will remain essentially unchanged."
These traditional dishes include fish and chips, steak and kidney pie and large pieces ofroasted meats. At Alfie's, the newest of the British restaurants in town and perhaps the mostgentlemen's club-like in design, Neil Tomes explains his passion for provenance (原产地). "Britain has started to become really proud of the food it's producing. It has excellent organicfarms, beautifully crafted cheese, high-quality meats."
However, the British don't have a history of exporting their foodstuffs, which makes it difficultfor restaurants in Hong Kong to source authentic ingredients.
"We can get a lot of our ingredients once a week from the UK," Tamlyn explains. "But there isalso pressure to buy local and save on food miles, which means we take our vegetables fromthe local markets, and there are a lot that work well with British staples."
The Phoenix, in Mid-Levels, offers the widest interpretation of "British cuisine", while stilltrying to maintain its soul. The gastro-pub has existed in various locations in Hong Kong since2002. Singaporean head chef Tommy The Kum Chai offers daily specials on a blackboard, rather than sticking to a menu. This enables him to reinterpret British cuisine depending onwhat is available in the local markets.
"We use a lot of ingredients that people wouldn't perhaps associate as British, but arepresented in a British way. Bell peppers stuffed with couscous, alongside ratatouille, is a verypopular dish."
Although the ingredients may not strike diners as being traditional, they can be found indishes across Britain.
Even the traditional chefs are aware of the need to adapt to local at tastes and customs, while maintaining the Britishness of their cuisine.
At Yorkshire Pudding, Hill says that his staff asks diners whether they would like to share theirmeals. Small dishes, shared with meals and "mixing it up" is not something commonly done inBritain, but Yorkshire Pudding will bring full dishes to the table and offer individual plates foreach diner. "That way, people still get the presentation of the dishes as they were designed, but can carve them up however they like," Hill says.
This practice is also popular at The Pawn, although largely for rotisseries (烤肉馆). Tamlynsays, "Some tables will arrive on a Sunday, order a whole chicken and a shoulder of lamb or ababy pig, and just stay for hours enjoying everything we bring out for them."
Some British traditions are too sacred (神圣的) to mess with, however, Tomes says. "I'd neverchange a full English breakfast."
注意:此部分试题请在答题卡2上作答。
46. The Phoenix in Mid-Levels may not use British ingredients, but presents its dishes in aBritish way.
47. Yorkshire Pudding is a restaurant which will bring full dishes to the table but offer plates tothose diners who would like to share their meals.
48. With culinary improvement in recent years,London’s restaurants are now able to appealto the tastes of all kinds of overseas visitors.
49. Hong Kong diners welcome new ideas and presentations 9 according to Welsh executivechef David Tamlyn.
50. While using quality ingredients, David Tamlyn insists that the dishes should maintainBritish traditional tastes.,
51. The food ingredients from Britain are produced on excellent organic farms so Neil Tomesloves it.
52. Tamlyn says that besides importing ingredients from Britain once a week, his restaurantalso buys vegetables from the local markets.
53. British food generally known for its bad taste.
54. The Second World War led to an inadequate supply of food in Britain.
55. Britain couldn't compete with some of its neighbouring countries in terms of food in thepost-war decades.
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